A Tour of Duty in North Sulawesi
When Alfred Russel Wallace, that
paragon of English endeavour and
observation, toured though this region
in the 1850s, he noted that "the little
town of Menado [sic] is one of the
prettiest in the East...To the west and
south the country is mountainous, with
groups of fine volcanic peaks 6,000 or
7,000 feet high, forming grand and
picturesque backgrounds to the
landscape."
Those fine volcanic peaks that he
talks of are the Minahasa highlands.
North Sulawesi is the only part of this
strangely sprawling island that has
volcanoes, and they are magnificent
smokey beasts to behold. Nestled as it
between two active volcanoes (one of
which, Lokon, is given to erupting every
few years, the last one was in May, 2001,
showering Manado and surrounding areas
with ash) it’s little surprise that the name
of the village means “people who pray”.
Even the most casual observer will notice
that North Sulawesi has a proliferation
of churches, many of them seemingly
stuck at various stages of construction.
Given their precarious situation though
it’s no surprise that the people of
Tomohon were given to praying more
than most.
For energetic travellers a trek to the
top of either of Tomohon’s two adjacent
peaks, Lokon or Mahawu, will both
challenge and reward you with spectacular
views. On a clear morning from the rim of
Mahawu’s steaming crater we got a bird’s
eye view of the whole region right down
to the city of Manado and Bunaken island
to the north and as far as Bitung and Mt
Duasaudara to the east.
The fertile soils of the Minahasa highlands have made them some of the most productive for agriculture, and it seems everywhere you look up here are neat rows of cabbages, carrots, spring onions and other vegetables that eventually find their way to the Tomohon market, and later onto dining tables around the region.
Being volcanic highlands you might
also expect to see some highland lakes,
and you won’t be disappointed. Lake
Tondano is the largest and most well
known, with its colourful restaurants
built on stilts over the water for a fresh
seafood lunch. Then there’s the
remarkable Lake Linow fed by a steaming
volcanic spring, on a hot day it is famed
for its colour changes from deep blue to
turquoise, green and sulfur yellow. Also
nearby is Kali waterfall. Just a short drive
from Tomohon, from the carpark it’s a
moderately energetic walk along a narrow
path which winds through some
luxuriant rainforest. The waterfall itself
has a charming fairy tale quality to it
with an arched bridge having been put
in place and the rock walls around are
covered with beard moss blowing in the
breeze and spray from the powerful falls.
Best to take a raincoat and something
cover your camera.
The fertile soils of the Minahasa highlands have made them some of the most productive for agriculture, and it seems everywhere you look up here are neat rows of cabbages, carrots, spring onions and other vegetables that eventually find their way to the Tomohon market, and later onto dining tables around the region.
Being volcanic highlands you might
also expect to see some highland lakes,
and you won’t be disappointed. Lake
Tondano is the largest and most well
known, with its colourful restaurants
built on stilts over the water for a fresh
seafood lunch. Then there’s the
remarkable Lake Linow fed by a steaming
volcanic spring, on a hot day it is famed
for its colour changes from deep blue to
turquoise, green and sulfur yellow. Also
nearby is Kali waterfall. Just a short drive
from Tomohon, from the carpark it’s a
moderately energetic walk along a narrow
path which winds through some
luxuriant rainforest. The waterfall itself
has a charming fairy tale quality to it
with an arched bridge having been put
in place and the rock walls around are
covered with beard moss blowing in the
breeze and spray from the powerful falls.
Best to take a raincoat and something
cover your camera.
Around two hours drive from
Tomohon is one of the most remarkable
cultural sites of all North Sulawesi. In
the village of Sawangan in the Airmadidi
district you will find a collection of stone
sarcophagi. Varying in age, the oldest
reportedly dates back as far as 900AD.
The Waruga as they are called consist
two distinct parts; the hollowed out
square or rectangular base, and a rooflike
lid into which some have carved
scenes depicting the life, and sometimes
death of the occupant. According to the
wizened old crone who tends the grounds
here, the oldest of the sarcophagi have
no decorations. It was only a relatively
recent practice, from 1700s on, to add
the low relief carvings. One scene clearly
shows a woman giving birth and suggests
that she must have died during labour.
Surrounded by gnarled frangipani trees
this is an eery place, especially when you
consider that the dead were not buried
underground but merely placed, inside
the vessel in a fetal position squatting
atop a china plate. An outbreak of cholera
and tuberculosis in the early 1800s meant
that the Dutch colonial government
outlawed the practice, and many of the
waruga from around the region were
gathered up and relocated to Sawangan.
There are now 144 of them gathered
together here, and a small museum was
added which displays some ceramics, and
huge copper jewellery (bracelets and
necklaces) which were used to adorn the
otherwise naked bodies.
Continue Reading: Bolaang Mongondow
 Mt. Mahawu Crater (Photo: Corine Frischknecht)
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 Churches are a common sight in predominantly Christian Minahasa.
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Got four hours to kill? If the answer is yes, then get in a taxi or microlet and take a trip to Kali Waterfall, a
short drive from Manado, part way up the road on the way to Tomohon. Suggestion – wear sneakers or hiking boots
as can be slippery. Pass Gran Puri Hotel and you will make a left hand turn after about ten minutes later, as
you begin to wind up the hill towards the highlands. Once making this turn, the road is actually pretty good
all the way up to the parking lot. (I hate to use the word "parking lot", it should be "the house
where there is room to park a car or two"!). This short ride is about 10 to 15 minutes. Get out of you vehicle
– smell the cool air, no exhaust and everyone willing to lend a hand, if you need it. The walk down to the waterfall
begins. First stop is the scenic overlook of Manado, where there is a private residence at this point and sometimes
you may get pisang goreng (fried bananas) for a nominal fee, but worth it, with the sambal (chilli). Do this on the
way back! After this brief Fuji Moment take your next right and follow it down approximately 200 stairs and some
flat area as well, and voila you arrive at the base of the falls. Be ready for lots of wind blown spray as the
force of the water is pretty intense, causing the mist to pretty much cover everything and everyone. There is
a nice bridge that spans the river where you can get some great shots of the waterfall!Jeremy H Barnes
Source: "What's Happening?" - Manado Safari Tours Newsletter
 Vegetable fields near Rurukan, along the way up to Mahawu crater |
 Flowers on sale in Tomohon |